What Is Polki Jewellery? A Complete FAQ Guide to Uncut Diamond Jewellery

Real diamonds, left uncut, hand-set in gold using a centuries-old Indian technique called Jadau — that's Polki in one line. Below are straight answers to what people actually ask before buying it.

What is Polki jewellery?

Jewellery set with diamonds that were never cut or faceted. Each stone keeps its natural, slightly irregular shape, which gives the whole piece a softer glow than you'd get from standard cut diamonds, and means no two pieces ever really look the same.

Is Polki a real diamond?

In almost every case, yes. The one exception is CVD Polki, grown in a lab rather than mined, then shaped to resemble the real thing. It's still genuine diamond chemically, just not dug out of the ground, and it costs noticeably less as a result. Moissanite Polki is a different case again, and it's common enough to deserve its own answer below.

How is Polki different from Kundan?

Same setting technique, completely different stone. Kundan is polished glass or a semi-precious stone; Polki is an actual uncut diamond. Side by side, Kundan throws a brighter, more even sparkle, while Polki has that quieter, more natural shimmer.

How do artisans actually set the stones?

By hand, using a method called Jadau. The gold base is carved first, packed with a natural resin called lac while still soft, and each stone is pressed straight into it — no solder or prongs involved. Fine gold foil is then worked around the edges of every stone to lock it in place and hide the join. A single piece can take a small team of artisans several weeks. Full breakdown here: Kundan, Polki, Jadau, Thappa and Meenakari.

What are the different types of Polki diamonds?

Genuine Polki splits into three recognised grades, plus a couple of other trade terms describing colour and origin.

Syndicate is the top grade — clean, naturally lustrous, barely needs any treatment, and historically the grade used in royal and fine heirloom jewellery.

Zimbabwe comes specifically from mines of the same name and sits in the middle tier. Thicker than the other grades and generally untreated, but rarer than its "middle grade" label suggests, which keeps it expensive despite sitting below Syndicate.

Kilwas is what most Polki jewellery on the market is actually made from. It's thinner, and often shows small natural marks — a faint line or a dark fleck here or there. It also splits into two forms: filling Kilwas, lightly treated to even out the colour (and needing to be redone every few years as the treatment wears off), and non-filling Kilwas, left exactly as found, usually a touch darker as a result.

Side by side, the differences look like this:

Feature	Kilwas Polki	Syndicate Polki	Zimbabwe Polki	Moissanite Polki
Quality	The most affordable and widely available of the three diamond grades	Considered the finest grade, prized above the other two	A step below Syndicate; harder to source, which keeps it costly	Not a diamond; a lab-created moissanite alternative
Appearance	Flat base, domed top; small natural marks such as faint lines or dark flecks aren't unusual	Flat base, faceted dome; clean and bright with strong natural lustre	Flat base, faceted dome; even, undisturbed surface	Cut to mimic raw Polki shape; brighter, more colourful "fire" than diamond
Thickness	Noticeably thin	Solid and substantial	Dense, on the heavier side	Varies by design; a consistent, machine-cut base stone
Origin	Common and easy to find; used across contemporary designs	The grade traditionally reserved for royal and fine heirloom jewellery	Mined specifically in Zimbabwe	Lab-created; no mining involved
Typical Use	Everyday, modern Polki jewellery	Bridal and heirloom-grade pieces	Works equally well in modern and traditional settings	Popular affordable choice across both modern and bridal jewellery
Relative Price	Accessible	Highest	High	Lowest of the four

Beyond these, a few other terms come up in the trade. LB, or Lightly Black, is thick and dark enough that it rarely makes it into fine Jadau work — you'll see it more in open-set pieces. LC, Lightly Cream, is thin, pale and a genuinely useful way to get real uncut diamond without the Syndicate price tag. CVD is different again: a lab-grown diamond, cut afterward to mimic Polki's raw look, chemically identical to a mined stone but considerably cheaper.

None of this makes one grade "correct" and the rest inferior — a well-set Kilwas or Moissanite Polki piece can be every bit as beautiful as a Syndicate one, and that range is exactly what makes Polki-style jewellery available at such different price points. What matters is honesty about which type you're buying, since "Polki" on its own could mean any of the above, at very different prices.

What is Moissanite Polki, and is it a real diamond?

No, and this is a genuinely different case from CVD. Moissanite isn't diamond at all — it's silicon carbide, a completely different mineral, cut and set to echo the raw, uncut look of traditional Polki. Where CVD Polki is a lab-grown diamond with the same chemical makeup as a mined stone, moissanite has nothing chemically in common with diamond, even though it's shaped and set the same way.

That difference shows up visually too. Moissanite bends light more than diamond does, so instead of Polki's quiet, understated shimmer, a moissanite piece throws brighter, more colourful flashes of "fire." It's also very slightly softer than diamond, though still hard-wearing enough for everyday jewellery and fine for the odd knock a piece takes over the years.

What makes Moissanite Polki genuinely popular, rather than just a cheaper stand-in, is that it's entirely lab-created — no mining involved — and it costs considerably less than any grade of natural Polki. It's currently one of the most widely chosen options in Polki-style jewellery for exactly that reason: the traditional look and hand-set Jadau craftsmanship, at a price that's accessible to far more people. A large part of our own Polki and bridal range is set in moissanite for this reason.

Isn't Jadau Polki just another name for Kilwas Polki?

No, and this mix-up comes up a lot. Jadau describes how a stone is set. Kilwas describes what grade the stone is. They aren't competing terms — a piece can absolutely be Kilwas-grade Polki, set using Jadau, and that combination is actually the most common one you'll find.

What metal is it usually set in?

High-purity gold, almost always 22K, because it needs to stay soft enough to hand-shape and burnish around each stone. Some newer pieces use gold-plated silver underneath instead, to keep the look while bringing the weight and price down.

What does Polki typically get paired with?

Emeralds, rubies and pearls most often — they add a hit of colour against the diamonds' natural, understated shine. You'll also frequently find Meenakari enamel work on the reverse of a piece, usually in deep greens, reds or blues.

Can you wear Polki day to day, or is it strictly for weddings?

Depends entirely on the piece. A small stud or a slim pendant works fine for daily wear. A full bridal set is generally saved for weddings and big occasions, simply because of its scale. If you want the look without the weight, a Thappa-built piece gives you a large, dramatic silhouette that's actually light enough to wear for hours, and Moissanite Polki is a good route to the same effect at a lower cost.

Which grade should a bride actually choose?

Syndicate is the traditional choice for bridal jewellery, mainly for its clarity and rarity — it's the grade most associated with heirloom-quality pieces historically. That said, plenty of brides choose Kilwas or Moissanite Polki instead, and there's nothing lesser about either choice; both are simply ways to get the traditional look at a more reasonable price.

Does it actually last as an heirloom?

Yes, assuming it's looked after properly. The stones are held in place by gold and lac rather than glue, and gold itself doesn't tarnish, so a piece that's been cared for correctly can be handed down looking essentially the same as the day it was made. This holds whether the stones are natural Polki or moissanite — it's the setting and the gold that age well, not just the stone.

How should you look after it?

Keep it away from perfume and damp, since both can gradually discolour the gold and weaken the lac underneath. Store it somewhere dry and airtight rather than in a velvet pouch, which traps moisture. Clean it with a soft, dry cloth only; skip soap, water and ultrasonic cleaners entirely. And handle it gently — a hard knock can loosen the lac holding the stones in place.

Explore Polki at Ratnali

Every piece in our Polki collection is hand-set using traditional Jadau work by artisans in India, in genuine uncut diamond and moissanite alike. Take a look at the Polki collection, or get in touch through our Custom Design Service if you're after a specific grade, gemstone pairing or design.